Being a watch collector means you never rest. You are always thinking about which watch will be the next acquisition. When I first started to collect higher end watches I never really thought much about chronographs. But the chronograph-bug bit me and now I lust after the classics.
In this articles I try to gather my thoughts about the four legendary chronograph-watches I want to have in my collection.
Short term - within six months:
Omega Speedmaster 311.30.42.30.01.005
The moon-watch is of course the most famous chronograph of all time. The fact that the watch was on the moon i 1969 has made it a cult-watch with a gigantic following.
Now, Omega have since then had the Speedmaster as it's flagship-watch and in my opinion they have also taken it too far with the constant limited editions of the Speedmaster.
What I want is the classic edition of the Speedmaster complete with manual wind movement, solid case-back and hesalite crystal.
I'm going after either a fairly priced brand new one or a well kept pre-owned Speedmaster. I don't really have to have a vintage version of this watch. The classic version is great in my opinion, it's kept in the spirit of the version made famous in the 1960's.
It is still a very handsome watch. In my opinion Omega achived the greatest and most classic dial and bezel design with this watch. And not many watches looks perfect on both the steel bracelet or the leather strap.
To me this is both a tool watch and a watch which is almost acceptable as a dress watch. As an everyday watch it's perfect.
Omega offers a very nice big box which I contemplate trying to get a hold of.
Retail price according to Omega is $ 5.370 / € 4.585 but I have seen it in both official AD's and on the grey market for far less. I think I can find it new at around $ 4.600 / € 3.900.
Pre-owned I can get a nicely kept watch for around $ 3.600 / € 3.100
Medium term - within twelve months:
TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 or 12
Now, talking about classic chronograps that got a cult status from it's apperance on the big screen you can not forget the Heuer / TAG Heuer Monaco.
In was made famous by Steve McQueen in the 1971-movie "Le Mans" about the famous 24-hour-race in France.
What really makes this watch, in the classic version, pop in my eyes in the beautiful blue dial and of course the square case. The feeling this watch gives me is that it is both classic and super bold. I have tried the watch at a couple of AD's and it's both beautiful and over the top.
I don't think there is any other classic chronograph watch that is as recognizable on the wrist as the Monaco. You see it a mile away.
It is probably also one on the most dressy classic racing chronographs out there. I simply love everything about this watch. It is such a classic and bold watch.
TAG Heuer still produce the Monaco in the classic design and size. It's 39mm diameter will fool you as it feels much bigger on the wrist.
I'm still deciding if it should be the Calibre 11 with the crown on the inner side of the watch or the Calibre 12 with the crown between the chrono-pushers.
The market for the Monaco is crazy. You can find it new and pre-owned at a ton of different prices. I want box and papers so this limits the field a bit.
TAG Heuer list the retail price at $ 5.350 / € 4.660 but I can find it new at both AD's and grey market for a much lower price $ 3.800 / € 3.300. Used it can be had at around $ 3.200 / € 2.700.
Long-to-medium-term - two to three years
Rolex Daytona 116520
Let's be honest. This is nowhere as classic a watch as the three others on my want/dream-list. I might be making a controversial statement here. But to me the Speedmaster and the Monaco as well as the El Primero are much more classic watches than the Daytona.
Daytona was only produced in small quantities from 1963 to the late 1980's. It was re-introduced in the early 1990's and then again in year 2000. In the earlier versions Rolex didn't even use an in-house movement but a modified Zenith El Primero-movement.
The watch was made famous by Steve McQueen who wore this watch privately for decades. And of course by Paul Newman. The version Paul Newman wore is cult and extremely sought after today.
In year 2000 Rolex rewamped the Daytona with an in-house movement.
It's strange as the watch for years was one of the Rolexes that I quite disliked. But lately the white dial version with the steel bezel can't get out of my head.
It actually started when I had a business meeting and my client was wearing the 116520 - white dial and steel bezel. In the flesh the watch looked amazing and since then it has been stuck in my mind.
It is very flashy and shiny and I just love the bracelet with the polished center links. Everything with this watch just works perfectly. The pop of red with the "Daytona" above the six o'clock subdial is just great.
For some reason I also like the screw down pushers. They really have little purpose as no sane person would go diving with the watch, but they give the watch a rough tooly feel along with the more shiny elements.
This is the only Daytona preferably in white but black is okay too besides the Paul Newman I would ever like to buy. The two-tone versions are way too flashy for my tastes.
I am a big Rolex fan and already own the GMT Master 16700 (Pepsi) and the ultimate down played tool watch, the Submariner 14060 two-liner. They are amazing watches.
I will only consider the Daytona pre-owned as it's getting harder to find new ones and the price is simply too high. But I have seen them at around $ 14.300 / € 12.200.
Long-term-or-the-joker - within five years
Zenith El Primero 03.2150.400/69.c713
In the broader watch audience Zenith El Primero for some reason goes under the radar. But for watch lovers it is loved and admired.
The first El Primero was released in 1969 with the since famous in-house movement. It is still the same great movement that Zenith uses today in the El Primero. And the movement is so good that Rolex used to use it for the Daytona.
What is really special about the movement is the vibrations per hour vph of 36.000. In comparisson the Daytona movement is 28.800 vph. So the hands on the El Primero moves ultra smooth.
In the never versions you get a see through case back so you can loose your breath looking at the stunning movement.
I have fallen in love with the colourful 03.2150.400/69.c713 version of this watch. It is both dressy, classy and very sporty in my opinion.
I call the El Primero my joker or dark horse. Because I can easily see myself finding a great offer and then hitting the button.
I would like it on a black or brown leather strap for the dressy look of this combination.
Just think about it; it is basically the same movement as in 1969. That is just an amazing achievement that fourty years ago was Zenith built such a great movement.
And even though it beats very fast it is very accurate and robust. I admire the Zenith El Primero.
It can be had brand new at $ 5.500 / € 4.700 and pre-owned for about $ 4.800 / € 4.400.
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Pictures: Official pictures from Omega and TAG Heuer. Pictures of the web for Rolex and Zenith.
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